“So, Mr. Stonebreaker, why do you ride waves so big they can easily kill you? Give the why of it.”
This isn’t a simple answer, but Casey doesn’t have to think about it.
“I feel God when I’m on a big wave. He’s closest to me then. I’m His creation and He loves me.”
A moment of silence while the writer nods and looks down at his tape recorder.
“What about the rest of the time?”
“Oh, for reals, man. But not as strong. I went to the interactive van Gogh a couple of years ago, and felt God there. Yeah. In every one of those pixels.”
Keneally clears his throat.
“Where do you think Jesus Christ fits into all this?”
“He’s a part of everything, like we all are.”
“Even the wicked?”
“Maybe less so them,” says Casey. “I’m not sure how it all works.”
Mae seems to have sensed that things might be winding down here. Aging and slow, she lumbers to Casey’s side and lies beside his chair.
He leans over and scratches behind one ear, runs his finger along her graying muzzle.
“Good luck at the Monsters of Mavericks,” says the writer.
“Thanks, man. I’ll be ready.”
“Some of the contest people up in Half Moon Bay say all the contestants have a chance, but don’t say you’re a contender. Your brother, but not you. Thoughts on that?”
Which hurts Casey’s feelings, on top of his rep as a privileged, semi-talented, money-mad, pretty-boy action doll.
“I hope Brock wins,” he says.
“Instead of you?”
“Heck yeah.”
“When does he find time to surf and train, with all those rescue missions he does—the fires and floods and hurricanes, or taking those vaccines to people who couldn’t leave their homes or tents or encampments?”
“Brock has the energy of ten men,” says Casey. “And doesn’t even train that much for contests,” says Casey. “He’s a total natural.”
Casey thinks of Brock robbing the Wu pirates at gunpoint just days ago. Robbing the pirates back. It’s no wonder that Brock thinks he’s in a good enough place to win at Mavericks. He also thinks he’s invented a new God to replace the old, burnt-out, useless ones. Brock is Brock because he believes: the Breath of Life! Go Dogs! Get off your asses and help! It’s not what the world can do for you.
While I tan my butt for a T&A cover story.
“Thanks for your time, Casey Stonebreaker. Lots of good stuff to work with here. Don’t miss that great billboard right out front.”
When the writer leaves, Casey stays in the director’s chair, posts some pictures of himself and Mae here in the now-empty studio. Dashes off a quick CaseyGram on how he thinks his brother will win the Monsters if they get the waves this year. He gets a lot of responses to that post, most of his followers saying, no, “YOU’RE GOING TO WIN IT!”
He loves his fans. The confidence they bring him. The trust he tries very hard to deserve.
He’s also always liked being an underdog. Makes him feel hyper-depressurized, like nothing can go wrong. Well, in the case of sixty-foot waves, like less can go wrong.
Casey walks outside to a sunset on Sunset, the lessening orange light of LA holding the world in its glow, the boulevard already dark, headlights on.
He stops on his way to the parking garage, looks up at the bottom-lit clouds and the blue-gray sky. Sees himself on a towering digital billboard wearing a collegiate-looking Dream Coast cowl-neck sweater.
Mae pulls at her leash and whines softly.
“Pretty man, isn’t he?” someone asks from just behind his right shoulder.
“Whatever.”
Turns to Bette Wu, in a white linen suit and white pumps, fedora, and purse. Every time he sees her she looks taller, and in this light her skin is perfect and she’s pretty. Wicked pretty, Casey knows. Mae wags her tail and smells her shoes.
“Woah. Not you again.”
“Take a walk?”
“What exactly do you want? You guys aren’t planning to burn down the Barrel while we stand here, are you?”
“Don’t be so dramatic.”
“That’s what your dad said.”
“He’ll say anything to get a reaction. Inside, he’s an insecure child.”
